Château Nadal Hainaut_傳承Roussillon百年家旨
“Passeurs de Goût, Passeurs de Vignes”
從1826年以來Château Nadal Hainaut守護著Roussillon的葡萄園, 近兩百年的歷史傳承到了第六個世代,目前由Pauline Nadal et Julie Nadal 姐妹一同經營管理,在Jean-Marie Nadal父親的協助下創造豐富的生態系,並注重釀酒和栽種葡萄的永續性同時推出一系列有機酒款。
對她們而言,葡萄是見證家族歷史最好的媒介,它不僅保留住當下風土傳遞的風味,也用來紀錄每個世代最重要的時刻。『例如Carignan 1900 IGP Côtes Catalanes La centenaire這款酒使用的葡萄,來自我們祖父母Therese Hainaut和Francois Nadal結婚時種下的葡萄藤,現今已將近123歲,1900年也是Château Nadal Hainaut誕生的一年,意義非凡。我們當然也還保留著出生時父親為我們親手種下的葡萄藤; 所以前幾年當我的孩子出生時,我也按照這樣的家族傳統耕種了5公頃的灰皮諾。
我們酒窖裡還有許多80和90年代釀造的葡萄酒,這些風味在酒瓶裡被傳承好幾個世代,
因此,我們非常感謝這些葡萄藤傳承了最珍貴的價值。』
1900年,Château Nadal Hainaut座落於一處12世紀建造的修道院,她們的葡萄園位於Languedoc-Roussillon核心,屁里牛斯山和地中海之間的平原,土壤以白堊黏土為代表,旗下酒款分布在Côtes du Roussillon及Côtes Catalanes產區, 並另有少數的加列酒和自然酒系列。
Château Nadal Hainaut目前43公頃的葡萄園裡專注在10個葡萄品種:Chardonnay, Muscat Petit Grain & Muscat d’Alexandrie , Syrah, Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Macabeu 和老藤Carignan centenaire。擁有培育Roussillon當地的品種Macabeau;南法經典的Syrah+Grenache混釀Rosé,或是傳統法釀製的Muscat甜酒。
而17款酒又再區分為佐餐酒系列-3 Sources 提供紅白粉紅三款輕鬆易飲的南法風情;中等酒款展現各個葡萄的特性和潛力,到雜誌和餐廳喜愛的中高階紅酒:表現亮眼的除了有老滕100% Carignan La centenaire, 保有飽滿紅漿果的活力轉變成皮革般的野味, 或是獲獎無數的SIGNUM由70% SYRAH – 30% GRENACHE NOIR混釀, 風味集中飽滿表現在櫻桃跟黑醋栗,尾端飄出討喜的香草奶油。
Roussillon地腹廣大,現今有約2000公頃的葡萄園,各個微型氣候和土質也不同,為何這裏具備許多釀酒的好條件?
Nadal姐妹說明三個主要自然因素。第一:從屁里牛斯山脈吹來的強烈季風(La Tramontane) 使葡萄園遠離病蟲有活力; 再來是地形及地質的多樣性提供釀酒師創意和個性;最後,一年有高達360天的日照期使葡萄獲得最多生長期所需要的養分。
面臨近幾年法國熱浪波及,Roussillon 仍是產出許多優良葡萄酒的產區。
『高溫和乾旱雖不影響葡萄藤的生命力,但是適當的調整以因應自然條件的變動是我們不能忽略的問題。屁里牛斯山分隔了西班牙和Roussillon的平原,也使法國這一側的氣候更涼爽;的確,水源供應也是一個需要時刻關注的因素,但我們並不害怕,因為大多數的葡萄藤紮根極深,它們也經過多年的自我調整來適應環境的變化,加上Château Nadal Hainaut擁有的2個天然湖,使周圍葡萄園的土壤能維持良好的含水量。』
Château Nadal Hainaut也跟許多南法星級餐廳合作, 位於南法Narbonne 榮獲米其林2星的Maison Saint Crescent 還有許多1星的餐廳例如: LE FANAL in Banyuls sur mer, The Marcel in Sète, Les Brisants in Vendée, 優質的葡萄酒及長久以來建立的好口碑也讓她們成功佈下全球25個國家的高端餐飲市場。
如何站足競爭激烈的國際市場,Pauline和Julie認為擁有不同微型氣候和土壤的多樣性是一個優勢,這使她們能提供一系列獨樹一格的酒款。
『用時尚業來比喻,就有成衣和高級手作裁縫的差別。
其實葡萄酒也是,Château Nadal Hainaut 經過幾世紀累積的成就和優勢,
都源自於釀酒和栽種葡萄的細節裡。』
採訪/文:Fifi KUO
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