Dom Brial – 法國第一,百年釀酒合作社

2023-07-26

Ensemble, nous sommes plus Forts.

 

Dom Brial-法國第一, 百年釀酒合作社

1923年Dom Brial合作社成立於法國屁里牛斯省的Baixas鎮,在Baixas百位葡萄農的出面支持,結合共享、互助和追求卓越品質的理念,因而促使了Dom Brial的誕生,如今成為Rousillon釀酒業中的歷史代表之一。

 

在這樣雙贏的模式下優點是使分工更精確並且提升葡萄酒的品質。因此,Dom Bral事業規模不僅在短時間內擴增到Rousillon地區外,也吸引眾多Occitanie地區的葡萄農參與,迅速奠定了Dom Brial的核心理念-團結使我們更強大 « Ensemble, nous serons plus forts » 。

 

 

合作社名字的由來是選用在當地著名的一位歷史人物,Dom Brial是一位在Rousillon出生的本篤會牧師,過去他協助Baixas和Pia地區持續營運學校,他不僅是一位教師也同時是歷史學家、學者、編輯,在生命後期的歲月Dom Brial決定將每年教學薪資全數捐出,用於支薪給希望在Baixas和Pia貧民區任職的老師,讓當地貧窮的孩子能夠接受教育。

 

因此當時合作社的創辦團隊必須選出一個代表Baixas區域的名字時,
他們一致想到Dom Brial牧師。

 

 

回到現實社會中,Dom Brial的成立卻是先經過一段歷史的洗禮。
根據1850年的文獻記錄, Baixas 地區耕種葡萄的景象十分熱絡,當時的葡萄酒貿易也相當興盛,
但到了1904年, 景氣卻不如往常連帶葡萄價格大幅跌落, 短時間內Baixas地區的家庭大多處在貧窮的邊緣。


 

因此,Baixas成為帶動1907年的法國葡萄農起義 (La révolte des vignerons du Languedoc) 的第一個村莊, 由法國最大葡萄酒產區之一 Languedoc地區的葡萄農上街反抗政府漠視被打壓的葡萄酒價格,和抗議剝削農民的葡萄酒盤商交易引發的一連串暴動。葡萄農民與官方和企業的激烈抗爭直至1914年才結束,在這歷史背景下因而促使1923年Dom Brial合作社的誕生。

 

今日,Dom Brial 代表247個葡萄農的心血,高達約2100公頃的土地,全是他們共同細心照料的葡萄園,而銷售及酒窖管理由專業熱情的行政團隊主理。






 

Dom Brial 旗下目前有7個系列, 共16款酒。遵循傳統釀造法的製程,Dom Brial 不斷深入研究 AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages 的土壤及氣候和釀酒歷史,今日大多數採用傳統萃取酒液和整串釀造。


 

其中,自然甜酒 Vin Doux Naturel 是Dom Brial的靈魂. 也是源自Roussillon的特色酒款。不光是他們擁有最大量的自然甜酒,其中還保留市面少見的10年、20年、和30年的橡木桶陳年酒,另外還有非常值得品飲的1959,196,1979,1989年份珍藏甜酒。

 

這十年內,Dom Brial也持續精進技術和策略以符合市場需求。他們推出有機葡萄酒系列,也實施多年在陶甕內釀造葡萄酒,或是近期推出橘酒和無添加二氧化硫的酒款。

 

已經連續3年獲得全法國第一合作社的Dom Brial,不僅貫徹品質至上的理念,在許多營運細節提高超越多數法國合作社的標準。


 

過去在法國,傳統的合作社並不直接販售給消費者,而是整批大量賣給葡萄酒仲介商(négociant du vrac),並由他們負責裝瓶販售;Dom Brial 自1923年以來,在合作往來的數個葡萄園中心建造第一座酒窖同時對外營運成銷售門市。

 

1977年,法規確立了 AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages的分級和規範,為了符合AOC須達到一定比例的單一品種釀造,Dom Brial立即導入當代科技管理的概念及設備,目的是幫助中小型規模的葡萄農和釀酒師,即使在人力不足的狀況下能完成小批次收成及分批釀造管理的流程,為了穩固品質衛生及保障釀造過程中的安全性,Dom Brial 早期即獲得ISO 9001的認證。





 

消費市場轉型後的法國葡萄酒合作社

 

傳統的葡萄酒合作社以大規模、大產量來獲利,能快速的根據產量調整經銷策略。Dom Brial團隊則將其重心放在優化與葡萄農的合作流程,由五位專業人士負責6000塊的葡萄園,提供技術及器具給小農使他們能栽種出品質穩定的好葡萄。

附圖:Dom Brial 總裁 François Capdellayre (左) 和執行長 André Serret (右)出席2023年一月舉辦的 Dom Brial成立百年紀念晚宴

 

負責Dom Brial亞洲市場代表的Gregory Chantereau憶起60年代的法國人飲酒量相較現在低,大多數只想挑選品質優良的葡萄酒,Dom Brial成為在當時的先驅,推出由單一葡萄園小批次釀造的酒款來回應市場需求;當每批次的葡萄在酒窖內經過良好管理及篩選,Dom Brial的團隊能依照葡萄的特性及條件立即裝瓶儲藏;Dom Brial也是早期之一使用先進的葡萄篩選儀器,其能掃描每顆採收後的葡萄質量,並挑選出最好批次來釀造當年度最高等級的酒款;酒窖甚至經過多次改造,才能一次將多個小批次的葡萄酒分類、裝桶及窖藏。

 

到了80年代的法國人習慣飲用大容量盒裝葡萄酒 Vin En Vrac,90年代末期, 消費者購買酒的習慣又大幅改變,法國人開始到鄰近的酒類販賣門市或超市挑選優質的玻璃瓶裝葡萄酒;今天新世代的來臨加上疫情壓迫下的數位轉型,在法國能見到越來越多的電商或是線上酒窖門市提供消費者直接瀏覽目錄和購買葡萄酒。


 

在製造葡萄酒的成本結構中,法國的人力費用相較其他歐洲國家高出許多,因此合作社的模式能將這部分經費做最佳管理,由37位專業人士組成的Dom Brial團隊,現今為247個葡萄農家庭效力,與Dom Brial直接購買葡萄酒,就是對這些小農家庭最直接的支持及回饋。

 

與其說Dom Brial是大型葡萄酒合作社,倒不如說比較像是區域性合作的中型酒窖。

 

今日在法國,約有4個與Dom Brial相似經營理念, 成功提供卓越品質葡萄酒的合作社,最成功的例如位於隆河Hermitage著名的 La Cave de Tain l’Hermitage。

 

100年的里程,36500個一同走在葡萄園的日子。

今年一月慶祝成立一百年的Dom Brial從協助葡萄農提升品質到銷售品牌策略全程參與管理,落實對消費者的品質管理和提供零距離的服務。

採訪/文:Fifi KUO

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