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瑞士-葡萄酒隱身的國度

2024-03-21

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瑞士，得天獨厚的自然環境，這裏不僅有許多天然湖泊和高山，境內全數26個聯邦(Canton)都能看到葡萄園的蹤跡，還擁有全歐洲海拔最高和全世界佔地最小的葡萄園。

對愛酒人士來說，瑞士的葡萄酒並不常見，在低調的酒農和釀酒師背後，關於瑞士葡萄酒的產區或是風土差異更給人帶有神秘的距離感。

每一年，瑞士只有將總生產量1-2%的葡萄酒出口。

OFAG組織報導，在2022年瑞士總共生產9千9百萬瓶的葡萄酒。據統計，瑞士人當年度的每人平均飲酒量為36瓶，其中有13瓶的比例喝下去的就是國內自產的葡萄酒，全瑞士約有1500個葡萄農，他們釀造的葡萄酒多是為了供應需求漸增的國內市場。瑞士境內有62 個AOC認可的產區和特級園Grand Cru，兩者大多分布於Genève和Vaud,這裏的葡萄園由於多樣性的微型氣候和豐富的自然地貌，境內存在超過240種的葡萄品種，其中最為代表性的瑞士葡萄品種以白葡萄Chasselas和紅葡萄Pinot Noir為主。

瑞士六大葡萄酒產區

Valais-產量第一，佔全瑞士總產量的1/3，

從隆河上游到雷曼湖周圍，Valais名字來自於其峽谷地貌，境內擁有許多陡峭的葡萄園，常與法國隆河谷做相比。超過60種的葡萄品種被種植在這個年產量最大的產區。白葡萄品種以 Chasselas為主（在Valais人們稱之為 Fendant ）另外還有 la Petite Arvine, le Païen；紅葡萄品種則以Pinot Noir 和 Gamay為代表,但Valais最受消費者歡迎的葡萄酒卻是由少見的Syrah, l’Humagne Rouge, Cornalin, Merlot和Cabernet Franc釀造。

Vaud-最知名產區結合世界文化遺產

遍佈於雷曼湖(Lac Léman)北部和延伸到偏內陸的山腳下，數百年以來，葡萄園被種植在湖畔周圍，最著名的Lavaux葡萄梯田，沿著日內瓦湖延綿約30公里，形成絕美景色，在2007年入選為聯合國世界文化遺產。Vaud最代表性的酒以瑞士國寶，白酒Chasselas為代表，產量緊追Valais之後的Vaud每年總產量約26%，2/3的總產量為白葡萄酒，現今有6個AOC和2個特級園Grand Cru。

Trois Lacs-與勃根地相似的風土

瑞士產量最小的產區，僅有6%的年產量，鄰近諸羅山脈，三大湖區的葡萄園遍佈在Neuchâtel, Bienne 和Morat三個湖畔周圍的山坡，多數的葡萄園相當具有歷史性。

由於土壤和氣候與法國勃根地相近，因此這裡約半數的葡萄品種為Pinot Noir，白葡萄品種則是Chasselas最常見，也能品嘗到Pinot Gris, Chardonnay和Riesling。

Genève-經典品種和瑞士新秀

位於瑞士西邊的主要產區，境內高達5%的土地為葡萄園，產量佔全瑞士總產量的9%。Genève範圍並不大但能找到許多風格不同的酒款，紅白葡萄品種各占一半的比例。白葡萄品種能見到 Chasselas, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Aligoté；紅葡萄除了Gamay, Pinot Noir和Merlot代表，也能見到瑞士法語區獨有的原生品種Gamaret和Garanoir。

Tessin-濕熱的地中海型氣候

位於瑞士南邊義大利語區的Tessin（Ticino）,葡萄園大多被劃分為小地塊經營，集中在湖畔或是Ceneri山周圍（Mont Ceneri)。較熱的地中海型氣候帶來充沛的雨量，常見葡萄品種以Merlot佔高達90%的比例，一般多被釀造成紅酒和粉紅酒，其中獨特的是，有些釀酒師採用如法國香檳區釀造黑中白 Blanc de noire的方式，在這裡喝得到用100% Merlot釀造的白酒。

Swiss Allemande-優質淺力產區，黑皮諾代表

佔地最廣，境內涵蓋不同邦的大產區，2/3的產量以紅酒為主，比起其他邦較少被提及卻是極具潛力，值得被探索的產區。代表品種以黑皮諾為主，白酒較少見但能見到當地品種Müller-Thurgau 亦或是國際品種Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris。各個次產區所釀造的酒款風格差異大，其中最值得提及的為La Familien Liesch的Pinot Noir，於 2015年和2019年獲得瑞士該年度最傑出黑皮諾的獎項 (Gran Maestro of Pinot Noir)。

瑞士高昂的生活物價確實反映在葡萄酒製成的成本上，與其他歐洲葡萄酒出口市場相比，如法國、義大利、西班牙，相似品質的瑞士葡萄酒卻得花上好幾倍的價格才能品嚐。

這是跨入國際市場的一項挑戰，卻也造就瑞士每年大量進口其他國家的葡萄酒。

這項趨勢尤其在疫情和餐飲業歇業的陸續衝擊下，使瑞士當地的酒農得更艱難地尋找買家，瑞士的消費者扮演著重要角色，必須透過行銷和教育加強群體意識去支持當地的酒莊。

儘管要價不菲，但這些美麗的葡萄園梯田和獨特的本土品種，值得我們長途跋涉親自到瑞士品飲一番。

採訪/文：Fifi KUO

*文中提及的葡萄酒數量皆以每瓶750毫升計算。

＊官方資料參考來源 https://www.myswitzerland.com/fr-ch/decouvrir/ete-automne/oenotourisme/vin-suisse/

＊Visperterminen村莊，葡萄園座落的海拔高度平均在650m-1150m，為歐洲海拔最高的葡萄園。

＊Saillon: 位於Valais的一個Grand Cru, 隱藏著全世界最小的一塊葡萄園，它的佔地僅有1.6 平方公尺！這塊地只有3株當地品種的葡萄，自1999年以來，它隸屬於Dalaï Lama 。

*1970年，André Jaquinet用來自Jura的Gamay和德國的白葡萄Reichensteiner兩種葡萄混交研發了Gamaret 和Garanoir 。這兩款葡萄較早熟成，帶有黑莓及胡椒辛香料香味。

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